It had far more insulation and far fewer windows than any of my other rigs. If the reflective (low-e) foil touches anything it doesn’t work. Thanks MB. If nothing else, it’s unlikely to noticeably hurt your insulation potential and you’ll feel better about it longer term! When they’re mixed in the spray nozzle, they make a sticky foam. The windows are a large source of heat loss. The climate control in the dash can’t keep up with the massive area of the van. However, I’m going to make the case against rockwool and argue why you should never use … We weren’t trying to create a complete vapor barrier, so now that the interior walls are up and holding the insulation in place, the integrity of the tape isn’t quite so important. “The metal has absorbed the heat from outside and then it re-radiates it to the interior of the vehicle, so there is a radiative heat source. Generators work, but unless they’re built in, like in an RV, they aren’t very convenient. From a practical real-world perspective, I can say that there is a good temperature differential between the faces of the Low-E when it’s installed. Spray foam will cut air-based noise levels, but won’t help much with damping structural noise. 1/3 of each wall, and re-reveal the “weep holes”. Overall we’re happy with it, but I think the wool is probably more work than the other options as well. The Low-E goes on the inside of the van, taped up to the interior walls and the ceiling beams. If it becomes damp or wet, the insulation (when dried out) will maintain the original performance characteristics. It’s sticky and very hard to remove when it sets. We used separate sheets of material for the top and bottom sections of the walls, so the extra width would have been no use to us there. This stuff is not cheap. I also have a bunch of thinsulate from Hein. That means you have to cut and place the Thinsulate carefully. The metal has absorbed the heat from outside and then it re-radiates it to the interior of the vehicle, so there is a radiative heat source. All because of my online mentors who turned out to be nothing more than sleazy sales people, who couldn’t care less about my comfort or safety. Alternatively it’s possible to buy cans of “great stuff” foam but it takes a lot of aerosol cans to foam a van. tape fail with time. This mineral is a sterile, … Even if you put a vapor barrier inside the van, there are weep holes in the cavities where water can get in. I decided to go with closed cell spray. You can pull a long strip through the metal ribs using a wire fish, then it expands to fill the gaps. Personally, this stuff scares me. It was the worst rig of any, and I lost over $30k in the year I owned it, just in hard cash outlay, and not even counting my countless hours of work. Want a true 4WD Sprinter with locking diffs? It’s just meant to hold the material in place until you get the wall panels up. QatarInsulation. Those canisters give anything from 200 to 600 sq.ft of coverage. Long term exposure can cause respiratory problems. They can be bought or built to run on 12v and consume under 2 amps of power. You can also get Reckhorn in a 100 Mil thickness. Since most of the sound is coming from the underside and sides of the van, this layer is normally only applied on the floor and lower walls. The fibers are also friable (break into smaller pieces) much the same as Fiberglass. Installing Rockwool for Continuous Exterior Insulation – Here’s a look at how the 2018 FHB House is wrapped in an exterior layer of mineral wool insulation to minimize thermal bridging … Proper ventilation can not be achieved in a cargo van without leaving the the doors open all the time. Even though the Low-E is “inside” the Thinsulate, it still reflects heat back to the outside. Rockwool is also much cheaper than Thinsulate, which is a great incentive for many people (including Van Haus) to use it. Those can leak in the rain. It took some time to put everything together. During the winter it loses its heat quickly to the outside. You also get some noise transferred from the road through the suspension and into the vehicle frame. Or even dry wool. Because the Thinsulate doesn’t completely fill the voids in the walls, the LowE has the air gap that it needs to do its job properly. Then we glued in Thinsulate using 3M 90 spray glue. If they’re left in the van walls or the floor channels, they’ll attack the paint and then start rusting the panels. I’m considering using Prodex, instead of ESP lowE, because it’s available in 72″ width and it has a closed-cell polyethylene foam center that might be better. Menu Home; About Us. Mostly, we used it as padding under our automotive tweed fabric wall covering, but the offcuts were also very useful in some locations round the van to use as a sound damping/rattle prevention layer. However, if you leave an air gap, they use that air as part of their insulation. The boiling … As a consequence I am very comfortable in the cold and can keep it cool without running my AC too many hours (It draws about 35 amps out of the batteries while running). In a van, if you use a foil faced product in combination with other insulation types, it’s helpful, but not R8 helpful. That also means they’ll fit to van walls better. That’s probably best achieved through cutting gaps in the Reflectix layer for each enclosed space. R-Value. And (per the CDC) They also say the minor difference in cost doesn’t factor compared with these benefits over other materials. Our DIY camper van conversion will be used as a winter splitboarding basecamp, so climate control is primordial. None of it works good enough for temperature control to make it worth the cost or effort, and in many instances the negatives far outweigh any positives. Newer Sprinters are sprayed with anti-rust wax on their lower panels inside the van. The unit of measurement most people use is the R value. The LowE gets taped on to the ribs inside the van before the interior finish panels are put in place. Thinsulate also works well in the ribs and other less accessible areas of the van body. It’s around 100ºF out at the moment. If you hang a curtain, moving blanket, or other barrier behind the front seats, the heating and cooling from the dash vents won’t have to work so hard, and it’s more likely that you’ll stay at a comfortable temperature. Neither Fiberglass or Rockwool are likely to kill you, but both can make you itch. However it isn’t the only thing I used. @KLF - Perhaps I misinterpreted this but, from the havelock site: “Wool prevents condensation by generating heat from energy, making it warm when wet.”, And from some other research (https://weatherwool.com/pages/the-science-of-wool), “Inside the wool fiber, water vapor binds to the cortex, producing the heat of adsorption . If you wanted to ensure it stayed in place, a touch of glue at each end should do the trick. Rolls are easy to transport and can be cut to the length you need. PLUS I was paying for campsites with power. Very useful! The Thinsulate “breathes” through the weep holes in the rocker panel at the bottom of the van walls. Other than condensation, it wasn’t much better. Also, it holds water. Any more, and you’re adding weight for very little additional noise damping. The barrier either stops moisture from crossing at all, or “breathes” by letting moisture out of the building but not letting it in. That served as a great CCF layer for sound insulation too. We did notice a pretty large reduction in sound with the wool. I’m not sure that the insulating properties per inch thickness are better, but per dollar for sure. Thinsulate comes on a 60″ wide roll. And please, refrain from replying with “just park in the shade.” We will be living in this full time starting this summer. It is also mostly available in 3.5″ and 5.25″ thicknesses for residential installation. You might also want to make sure you do not accidentally block the drip holes in the bottom of the walls. Again, anything that blocks the heat from being radiated will be a good insulator. 1) It’s Fire Resistant. The Thinsulate reduces the amount of heat that gets through, but then the Low-E and air gap stop the remaining heat from getting into the van. Owens Corning R-15 Thermafiber UltraBatt Unfaced Mineral Wool Insulation Batt 23in. Also, the plastic body trim panels are held in place with clips that poke through holes in the sides of the van. I passed on your comment and links above to Van Haus and they replied that the mechanical irritation is just that: equivalent to rubbing a handful of rocks on your skin, not like fiberglass fibers. Both of those things are necessary because condensation can easily form inside the van. If you can get over the damage to your wallet, most types you can buy produce dust when you handle them, so they may create some installation issues. Blue Sea Systems’ warehouse just burnt down – expect low stock, NCV3 service manual (2007 vintage) – HTML version, Removing the rear door panels on Crew and Passenger vans, Choosing a van (Sprinter, Transit, or Promaster). Some people try to make a vapor barrier by completely sealing the Low-E layer, but that’s really not practical or useful. Some people suggest getting the slower-expanding foam because it’s less likely to make the wall panels “pop” or bow. The SoundDeadenerShowdown site also has a specific entry for camper vans, where they suggest using thinner butyl rubber sheets and covering 100% of the wall area. The dampening is done by sticking relatively heavy butyl rubber and foil pads on any flexy metal surfaces. Higher R-Value: 4.3/inch for Rockwool vs 3.3/inch for Thinsulate; Rockwool is thicker: Thinsulate is sold in 1.75″ thickness, that means the installed product has total R-Value of 5.8. Looking back, my failure was multi-faceted. The insulation is also great the other way round during the summer. For one year, I had a self converted cargo van, converted by me, following directions from supposedly experienced people online. Prices can vary at any time, but expect to pay around $0.10 … Spray foam typically starts life as two liquids. The. It should be mentioned that only active heating & cooling can keep you comfortable year round. VS. In over 40 years of being a nomad, I have lived in many different rigs, mostly factory camper vans or RV’s. Even with the van doors open, the contact adhesive is pretty pungent stuff while it’s flashing off. In other words, the Low-E doesn’t have to be the outermost layer in order to do its job. One potential benefit to polystyrene board mentioned on the Expedition Portal site is that PolyIso can lose R value at lower temperatures, whereas the polystyrene does not. The one big problem with recycled denim is that it’s not hydrophobic. We choose the wool as it’s supposed to generate heat when wet. Footwear and gloves are often insulated with Thinsulate® because it has so little … If you are gluing insulation in place, or spraying foam, it’s not likely to stick to the anti-rust wax. Incredible resource! Here goes though… You probably want enough potential for moisture to get out from the insulation space in the van. An empty Sprinter is a big metal oven in the summer, trapping and amplifying the heat of the sun. How well will you be sealing it away behind your walls? I haven’t ordered the insulation for our Promaster 159 xt HR…I’m back and forth between wool and thinsulate. Any thoughts are appreciated. It doesn’t seem to matter which side you spray the glue on, and the black layer looks better and has less loose strands than the white side. I can easily remove the bottom panels and vent up approx. Reversible acute irritations of the skin, eyes, and upper respiratory tract are well-known health hazards associated with direct dermal and inhalation exposure to refractory ceramic fibers, fibrous glass, rock wool, or slag wool in construction and manufacturing workplaces. Mineral wool (stone wool) is an environmentally friendly insulation, created by using a unique combination of stone and recycled slag, a by-product of steel production that would otherwise go to … Anyway, just wanted to reply so as to leave folks with more info. re: your insulation… just want to clarify, did you go insulate in this order: Van wall (outermost metal) > sound dampening like Rattletrap (not sure if you did this) > Thinsulate > LowE > interior wal. After freezing my butt off with the Big Buddy heater, I upgraded to a very expensive vented propane heater. You can put your hand near the inside van walls on a hot day and feel the heat being given off – radiated – even without touching them. Unfortunately their site has been redesigned since my last visit and it usually does not get better when that happens. Don’t bother. I mean, something that would point how it is beneficial to have wet wool insulation vs. other types dry. Sound Deadener Showdown uses this type of product in their van insulation projects. It can be super overwhelming when trying to figure out which is the best insulation to use. Really. The heat from the sun gets spread from the outside to the inside of the metal van walls by conduction. Thermal Wrap has a thermal conductivity of 0.023W/mK. The insulation didn’t help, and if anything worked against me. In a van, you already have a pretty good vapor barrier. The mattress pad is a nice alternative when you want to be warm in the van overnight but don’t want to heat the whole interior. https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=&sl=fi&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fewona.fi%2Ftuotteet%2F. Other uses are obviously in construction and people who build their own speakers. Good luck with your van purchase! Hello, your web site makes for a fantastic resource! Heat in one part of the body spreads to other places fast. There are so many options including polyiso foam board insulation, thinsulate, fiberglass, reflectix, spray foam insulation, rock … I have an opinion on this, but opinions are like belly buttons: everyone has one, and most are not suitable for sharing. I’d imagine if so, you maybe cut a few holes in it here and there to let the Thinsulate breathe or are there enough gaps without doing this? Heat loss happens because of heat transfert (a.k.a. https://havelockwool.com/van-insulation-products/. Made from stone, ROCKWOOL can withstand temperatures up to 2150° F. This helps to delay the spread of fire in a situation where every second counts. So maybe it does generate some bit of heat? durable, whereas the sheep’s wool option looks more cost effective, hydrophobic and can be stuffed into cracks easily. Christine, the Low-E works both ways. The diesel heater is highly efficient and keeps the van at a very comfortable temperature. The boards can squeak if not attached properly. With a fan we’re pretty comfortable right now. We basically sewed ours in until we added framing and walls to hold it there. Hi Christopher, I’m glad you’ve found this useful. The van’s skin will transfer heat to the thinsulate through conduction, then if there is an air gap after the thinsulate it’s the thinsulate that has the opportunity to radiate that heat. Thank you, I hope I can save enough money to start my own van one day. There’s obviously some insulation value but their R-value claims are seriously exaggerated. They come with a foil face and an adhesive backing. It’ll be about 6 inches thick there. I’m not sure how much benefit you’ll get from using the 72″ width. It’s nice to know the site is inspiring you. I covered the entire interior with thinsulate (other than the cab area, but I got as much of that as I could) and in most places also used XPS or Polyiso panels under my walls. The R value varies between R0.5 for 1/8” nylon continuous filament level loop, 24oz/sq. In other words, you use a substance that does not conduct heat well (some foams, for instance) to block the transfer of heat. My wife and I are just about to buy a 170 Crew 4×4 and I’ve been reading as much about insulation options as possible.
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